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Stewart Fulton : ウィキペディア英語版
Stewart Fulton


Stewart Fulton was a mountaineer from Scotland who climbed in the heyday of the "wild ones" in the sixties. This group was credited with putting up many new routes in the Alps during that time, most significantly the first ascent of the south face of the Aiguille Du Fou (with John Harlin, Tom Frost and Gary Hemming) a smooth wall of sheer rock long deemed to be unclimbable.
== Climb of the Aiguille Du Fou ==

The Aiguille Du Fou was first summited in 1901 but is best known for its south face, a 300 metre sheer rock wall which overlooks the town of Chamonix in the valley below. It was this face that was climbed by the team of Harlin, Frost, Hemming and Fulton in the summer of 1963.
In his book "The Climbers" Chris Bonington described the route as "impressively steep" but unfortunately referred to Stewart Fulton as Steve Fulton.


John Harlin III, whose father was one of the preeminent American climbers of the sixties who died attempting a direct ascent of the Eiger, describes the ascent of the Auguilles Du Fou (lunatic's needle) in his book "The Eiger Obsession"


:
"..() had first noticed the face two years earlier when he and Gary looked across the Mer de Glace and were stunned by 'one of the smoothest, most beautiful granite faces we had even seen. At that moment we both resolved to climb it."
"On still another attempt the rain came as they were ascending their fixed ropes in the crack, but they decided to push the route anyway. Stewart was leading a long, unprotected layback in the diagonal crack when he slipped, arching down hard on the one good piton he had managed to place. The rain and Stewart's bruised hand forced a retreat."


The climbers would go on to complete the route, along the way spending a night wet and exposed in an electrical storm on the south face of the mountain. Fulton would later reconnoiter the direttissima route of the Eiger with John Harlin II, but was not on the climb when Harlin fell.

抄文引用元・出典: フリー百科事典『 ウィキペディア(Wikipedia)
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